Starling Travel

After paying for expensive food everywhere from San Francisco to downtown Salt Lake, I’m always amazed when really good food is so affordable. It’s one of the reasons I love Cisero’s Ristorante in Park City. It’s an Italian restaurant with the cannoli in Utah. You have to leave the state to get a better cannoli. Of course the creamy marscarpone and flaky pastry is for dessert. I would love to always just skip to dessert, but sometimes after a long day working your body in the outdoors, you need “real” food. I always order the Capellini Pomodoro. It’s my favorite and the serving is so generous that I could easily share it with another person and still feel full.

Most of the time, if Mike and I take a trip up to Park City, it’s because we want to eat at Cisero’s. There have been quiet off-season nights when we were the only ones in the place and enjoyed ourselves in privacy. Winter escapades at Cisero’s tend to be loud and noisy evenings filled with happy skiiers and excited vacationers. I love to go there both times of the year because it’s always a good time for a cannoli.

Where: 306 Main Street, Park City, UT 84060-5102 Google Map Phone: 435-649-5044

If you type the phrase “Park City Moose” into Google, you’ll get tons of results for the Hungry Moose Pub & Grill. I’ve never eaten there and this is not what I’m going to talk about, but I found it amusing that there is hardly anything on the web about this.

A few years ago, Park City had a Moose on the Loose art show that was similar to the Cow Parade that was so popular in New York City. What you see here are the remnants of this art show. They are spread out all over the city now and would be confusing to a visitor who hadn’t known about the show.

My favorite of them all is the white moose on the top of the Claim Jumper restaurant. You can’t tell from this picture, but its side is covered with lights. It will run words across the side of the moose. I’ll never forget the cold and abandoned November that we went up to Park City for dinner. The moose said, “Let it snow!”

If you are cold, walking on Main Street in Park City, the best way to warm up is with a hot tea from Alpine Internet Cafe. The staff was quick to help us and we felt welcome there. I had several teas to choose from and Mike ordered the Malted Milkball. He said it tasted like a melted Whopper you could drink and I was a little jealous.

The sign said that the bathrooms are for patrons only. Last summer, when Mike and I were riding our mountain bikes around town, that sign bugged me. We had come in there to buy cold water after our trek, but the sign made me feel a little guilty for wishing there was a bathroom. I held it until I got back to my hotel. This time when I saw the sign, I didn’t care. My feet were cold and I wanted to warm them up before we continued walking up Main Street. I was just grateful to be able to wait for the staff to make my tea.

Compared to Hawaii, the prices for computer access didn’t seem outrageous, but compared to a couple miles west in Salt Lake, they made me cringe. If you know you’re going to need a lot of time on the computer, then you might want to take a drive to any Barnes and Noble in Salt Lake City, because you’ll pay less there.

There were lines of computers waiting for us to check our email. Since I can check my email on my phone, I didn’t really try out their computers, but it felt enticing to see so many warm computers with people at them. There were also couches and tables filled with people on their laptops. It was a great way to glean the computer dudes from the ski bunnies. They both were wearing ski boots, but the computer dudes were warm in the Alpine Internet Cafe.

• Alpine Internet Cybercafe Official Website

Where: 738 Main Street, Park City, UT 84060 Google Maps

The Sundance Film Festival attracts the big stars now, but in the early days it was a smaller film festival with very little press coverage.

It was more like the Slamdance Film Festival, which runs concurrently with Sundance in both Park City and Salt Lake City. It was founded by four men who had their films rejected by the Sundance Film Festival so long ago. They started their own festival in 1995 and now they have grown to receiving over 2000 submissions this year.

For a more detailed story about the Slamdance Film Festival:

• Salt Lake City Weekly arts & entertainment – Slammin’ by Ben Fulton

This year, the Slamdance Film Festival runs from January 22-29 at the Treasure Mountain Inn in Park City, Utah.

• Slamdance Film Festival Homepage

Where: Treasure Mountain Inn 255 Main Street Park City, Utah Google Map

The busy thoroughfare in Park City, where the Sundance Film Festival is right now, is Main Street. It’s noisy and full of excited people. If you step one street down to Park Avenue, you’ll find some peace and Good Karma.

They specialize in Indian curries and the food is delicious. Mike and I ate there last August, so there were tables set up in the open area in the back. We sat with the birds and squirrels while we ate. They were happy to eat a little of our Naan. We ate leisurely in the warm sunshine. During the winter, things are a little more cramped. I would recommend ordering your food to go and enjoying it in your hotel room or by the Town Lift.

If you are in the mood for excellent food with a spicy twist, go to Good Karma on Park Avenue when you’re visiting Park City. It’s a quiet escape from the busy noise on Main Street.

Where: 817 Park Avenue in Park City, Utah. Google Map Phone: 801-787-5907

The snow is crunching noisily under my feet. I’m not wearing the appropriate clothing. I have no long underwear under my jeans. I am wearing four inch heels instead of boots. I forgot to wear a hat or earmuffs to keep my ears from turning red and popping off my head. Miraculously, I remembered gloves. I’m cold, but I’m smiling and happy.

I am walking up Park Avenue because we parked at the Library. The Park City library is one of the venues for the Sundance Film Festival, so I wanted to get a picture of it, but I also wanted to avoid the crowds and traffic on Main Street. Once the festival starts, the library parking will be as bad as every other day, but last Monday, we were safe to park there.

I’m shocked to see skiers. I don’t know why this shocks me, but Park City has always been a summer town for me. Mike and I go up there to ride our mountain bikes. There are active people around, but mostly, we have the place to ourselves. It’s so different in the winter. It’s packed with people in ski boots and goggles. I want to take their picture. I want to point at them and whisper to Mike, “Look, Mike, there are some more skiers.”

My personal resort is suddenly full of ski bunnies and snowboarders. I keep telling myself that Park City is a ski town. Those lifts that take me and my mountain bike up the hill were built for skiers, silly. Still, everything looks a little strange to me. I feel like I’ve been dropped into a completely different town.

We cross over to Main Street and the area explodes in great smelling food. I can smell coffee and cream and fish and beef and something being grilled over fire. My nose is tested trying to discern the different scents surrounding me. I want to eat, even though I’m not hungry. All the aromas surrounding me are tempting. I settle for some hot tea and we continue our walk up Main Street.

It’s the same walk we have taken dozens of times during the summer, but it’s different. There are excited people everywhere. The shop owners are on their best behavior. The condo sellers are so busy that they don’t have time to stand outside the door beckoning us to come in. Everything is covered in a thin veil of snow that obscures signs and makes the entire street look softer.

On the walk back to the car, we take Park Avenue instead of covering Main Street again. We pass the Washington School Inn and reminisce about the last time we stayed there in August. It looks so different with the icicles hanging off the roof. The view out the window of our room would be so different today than it was in August. I wonder what the hot tub feels like after a cold day skiing. It felt wonderful after the long hours on the bike.

We pass the residential homes and see one for rent. “$1400 a month 2 bed 1 bath,” the sign reads. After looking at housing costs in San Diego, the price seems like a steal. The idea of living with this much snow and with the Sundance revelers seemed a little too much for me. I prefer the quiet solitude of my home in the valley and I gladly walk past the quaint home for rent.

By the time we get back to our car, my ears are bright red. I turn the heat on full blast and enjoy the dry warmth. Just taking a walk along the streets of Park City is fun. No money required.

Today starts the Sundance Film Festival. There are several venues in Park City, Salt Lake City, The Sundance Resort and Ogden. Here are the addresses for all the venues.

Park City

EGYPTIAN Mary G. Steiner Egyptian Theatre 328 Main St. 266 seats

ECCLES CENTER George S. and Dolores Doré Eccles Center for the Performing Arts 1750 Kearns Blvd. 1,270 seats

HOLIDAY Cinemark Holiday Village Cinemas 1776 Park Ave. 4 screens, approx. 150 seats each

PROSPECTOR SQUARE Prospector Square Theatre 2200 Sidewinder Dr. 360 seats

RACQUET CLUB Park City Racquet Club 1200 Little Kate Rd. 612 seats

YARROW Yarrow Resort Hotel 1800 Park Ave. Approx. 250 seats

LIBRARY CENTER Library Center Theatre 1225 Park Ave. 448 seats

Salt Lake City

BROADWAY Broadway Centre Cinemas 111 E. Broadway Broadway IV: 211 seats Broadway V: 238 seats Broadway VI: 274 seats

ROSE WAGNER CENTER Rose Wagner Performing Arts Center 138 West Broadway 485 seats

TOWER Tower Theatre 876 E. 900 S. 342 seats

Sundance Resort

Sundance Screening Room North Fork, Provo Canyon 164 seats

Ogden

Peery’s Egyptian Theater 2415 Washington Blvd. 822 seats

For driving directions and movie showings, see the Sundance Film Festival’s Website:

• SUNDANCE FILM FESTIVAL – Theaters and Driving Directions

Park City is filled with upscale clothing stores, ski equipment shops and galleries. If you go to the outskirts of the city, however, you’ll find the Tanger Outlet Mall. It seems that every major metropolitan area has outlet shopping, this is the one for the Greater Salt Lake Area.

These factory stores, however have the Park City feel to them. The design of the buildings conforms with the codes of the city, so it feels a little more rustic than a generic outlet mall plopped onto the landscape. It seems to fit in with the atmosphere. It sports its own Park City Moose, complete with shopping bags and colorful regalia.

Click here to see the store listings and directory:

• Tanger Outlet Center – Park City, Utah

Location: 6699 North Landmark Dr. Park City, UT. Right before the I-15 freeway entrance.

Link to the site on Google Maps:

• Tanger Outlet Center – Park City, Utah

When To Shop: Avoid “Back To School” time and Christmas if you dislike crowds. It does get a little busier in the winter and during the Sundance Film Festival, but not as bad as right before the school year starts. They are open Monday – Saturday 10:00 am to 9:00 pm and Sunday 11:00 am to 6:00 pm.

We’re writing about Park City, Utah this week as people from all around the world will soon arrive there for the Sundance Film Festival.

The Washington School Inn is a small bed and breakfast inn in a converted schoolhouse. While they’re already booked for Sundance this year, any other time it’s a great place to stay in Park City.

The Washington School was built as a 3-classroom schoolhouse in 1889. In 1985, it was renovated and became the Washington School Inn. It’s a historic building listed on the national Register of Historic Places.

The Inn has 15 rooms, including three deluxe suites. Each room has a private bathroom. The rooms have numbers as well as names like “Ms. Hedges” and “Ms. Reese”. Each is decorated in its own way and, if you’re picky, you can look at pictures of each one and choose your favorite.

Having grown up reading mystery novels, this seemed to me the sort of place where a Murder Most Horrid would occur, leaving the innkeepers and the assortment of eccentric guests as suspects. Fortunately, when Laura and I stayed there for two nights last fall, I’m pleased to report that nothing untoward happened.

The staff there is incredibly friendly, and after two nights we felt like we were at home. Breakfast is served daily and was a very impressive selection, all homemade and far from the typical hotel breakfast. Snacks are available in the evening and were usually very tempting and very fattening.

Parking is available across the street for guests, which is nice when the city is crowded. If you’re skiing, they provide lockers in the basement to store skis and equipment. The owner was happy to let us park our bicycles in the garage next to the Inn.

Amenities include a nice hot tub, sauna, a shared mezzanine area with TV, a library of books to read, and a beautiful outdoor garden area with chairs and tables. It might feel like an anachronism in this quaint inn, but high-speed wireless Internet is available at no charge for guests.

Park city’s historic Main Street is a very short walk from the Inn, so there are many restaurants, shops, and art galleries you can explore without driving. Ski lifts are also close, and Park City’s many mountain bike trails can be reached easily on bicycle.

Prices are about what you’d expect for a luxury hotel in a resort town, but quite affordable in the less busy times of the year. Rooms start at $120 April through November, with higher rates during ski season ($265) and even higher rates during the Sundance Film Festival ($320).

Whether you’re looking for a romantic getaway or just a cozy place to sleep in between ski runs or bike rides, The Washington School Inn is a great place to stay.

Location: 543 Park Avenue, Park City, Utah. The Washington School Inn is one block over from Park City’s Main Street (old town) and near the Town Ski Lift.

When to Stay: Winter if you enjoy the scenery or skiing and don’t mind the prices and crowds; Summer or Autumn if you prefer lower rates, great weather, and your choice of nearby uncrowded restaurants and shops.

Official Site: Washington School Inn

I can feel my city gearing up for the Sundance Film Festival. This year it runs from January 19th to January 29th. I can already smell the excitement in the area. You may not know, but the film festival isn’t solely in Park City. There are three venues in the Salt Lake area that show films. We have film festival revelers enjoying our city for almost a month:

• Pick Me! » The Sundance Vacationers Are Still Among Us

Park City is a quick drive from Salt Lake, so there is still time for you to come and enjoy my city. The hotels in Salt Lake are much more affordable and the drive up Parley’s Way is short when compared to Los Angeles commuting.

For more information about The Sundance Film Festival:

SUNDANCE FILM FESTIVAL